Taipei is great for food--actually more for the atmosphere in the restaurants/bars. I'm talking about the mid-price range ones, often with funky decor and funkier clientele. There are many in the back-alleys off Chung Hsiao Rd near Sogo, near the Far East Hotel, as well as the Tun Hwa North and Fu Hsing North roads. I suppose with the opening of Taipei 101, the area around City Hall could also be quite happening. You really need a local to take you around, as the "in" places change regularly. Taipei is still the home of the original "Din Tai Fung". Be prepared to wait in line, though! Try to avoid expat drinking holes like Carnegie's as they often end up being meat markets, unless this is to your liking. Another place with quieter cafes is Tienmou (sp?). It's up north across the river.
Shopping: Try the usual department stores like Sogo and Mitsukoshi. I found them to be expensive though. For a cheaper option, try the Shilin night market. Getting there is easy, as there's a MRT stop right nearby.
National Palace Museum in Taipei is one of the must see museums of the world. It is the largest collection of Chinese artefacts anywhere as the nationalists managed to sneak out the entire royal collection before the revolution in the mainland!
Other than that, I would agree with the poster above about the East Coast and Tarako. It's a lot easier with your own transport, as the group tours are catered more towards local taste. If you do decide to rent a car, take a train to Hualien first and pick up your car there (the train ride itself is pretty cool). It is just too torturous to drive to anywhere on the east coast. Whole different story once you're there though.
Final advice: spoken English outside of Taipei is pretty minimal. But Taiwanese are the friendliest lot in North Asia. Enjoy!
E-mail me if you have specific questions.
[This message has been edited by ksp (edited 08-10-2003).]
