My god! I made this posting about a month ago and have been so swamped with work, I forgot to look it up until today!
I feel as if I've been at the dinner table at some family reunion where all my elders have been present and I asked, "Tell me what it was like during the war, uncle X" and I spent the next 15 hours listening to all sorts of accounts and tales. Don't get me wrong, I am very impressed, grateful and (admittedly) incredibly overwhelmed by the response. 3 pages - what have I wrought?
Nevertheless, the four of us will pore over these responses and come back to you (if you expect a reply from us). I must congratulate most of you on your measured, thoughtful responses. Just for your info, the 3 of us didn't just study and come back with degrees in hand, we well and truly immersed ourselves in the country we studied in, which makes us something of a rarity as far as locals go.
Anyway, we'll come back to you all over the next few weeks, I gather this is a site for expats so we won't take up the resources of this board too much. Peace be with all!